Being both proudly European (her more than me), we set out to relentlessly eat that way whilst being hooked up in the Middle East. Easier said than done, and it appears that the closest we can get is buying wonderful cheeses, meats and breads from Waitrose and eating it at home. Alas, home is still my very white on white typical, sterile Dubai apartment, which, being up in a tower and in the middle of nowhere, is obviously not great for people-watching (a staple of eating in Europe) and that my A.C. is constantly turned up to eleven also takes more than a little away from the atmosphere of chic eating and enjoying the moment. Sand makes a terrible garnish for cold cuts.
It's the same story when we venture out. Despite some places in town offering incredible food, it's sadly almost as difficult to find an authentic European eating experience in Dubai as it is to find peace on that wonderful continent at the moment, at least it seems that way.
On a recent Friday evening, the day after yet more horrific attacks in France, we ended up at Bistro des Arts, a little French place at Dubai Marina which, in the words of the swooners online, is one of the best places in Dubai for French food and a Frenchier feel. Considering what had happened in Europe (again), the choice was apt, and appropriate.
'Arts' is an outpost of The Address Dubai Marina (I got the right Address this time) but you don't access it through the hotel; instead, the main entrance is right on the Promenade, Dubai Marina’s main pedestrian thoroughfare. As you approach the restaurant, its cute little awnings and pot plants assist with you momentarily forgetting that you are in Dubai, stifled by rude families, kids on trikes and an evening heatwave of forty plus degrees which, when coupled with ninety percent humidity, makes an ambient air temperature of over sixty. I love that that the restaurant is playing up to its self-proclaimed “1970 Parisian bistro” character before you've even sat at the table; the feeling of walking in straight off the street into a quaint little neighbourhood hideaway (which serves alcohol!) is a novel thing out here and it is so, so welcome.
And oh so quaint! Even her highness, who comes from like every European country, was impressed. Rickety little chairs, checked tablecloths, dishtowel napkins, those Art-Deco-ish vintage wine posters on the walls, etcetera. You couldn't get it more Parisienne, maybe only if the waiters were sporting necklaces made from garlic bulbs. Even though it would be to my disadvantage, I loved how, to get the best experience from Arts, you'd need to be conversant in French. The generous-but-concise “‘Terroir’ French home-style food" menu requires at least a partial translation service, the burly waiters all seem to be from the French-speaking parts of Africa and the Middle East (European waiters are something of a rarity in Dubai) and are all having a jolly good time running around and speaking in French to anyone who can/dares to try. The wine list is massive. I mean literally massive — it was the size of the table we were sat on — and is carried from table to table. Agin, an education in French wines and terroir is advised if you have to make total sense of it. The European picked out a nice bottle of red (or shall I say rouge?), a Bordeaux, Mouton Cadet, and we nestled into our seats, in a picture-perfect tiny table in a bay window overlooking the water, and pondered what to eat.
Arts’ menu toes the line between being accessible for those who have little understanding of French food and authentic enough to entertain those who do, and by jingo it works. It’s happy place full of é’s, ô’s, le’s, la’s, d’s and l’s, where staples like Salade Niçoise or Croque Monsieur rub shoulders with things — most French, some not — that will make the heathens in Dubai bark like sea lions, such as Wagyu beef and dodgy-sounding ‘truffled brie’. There are even bastardisations in case one is not sure which camp they fit into. Duck breast burger with Foie Gras, anyone?
We shared a Foie Gras starter and things didn't set out well. What was offered was very much 'à la packet de Tesco' and was just not good enough for the price. We should have been suspicious in simply how fast it materialised from the busy open kitchen behind us. Ah well, such is life. We had nice bread on the table and the wine was going down well, so let's move right along.
Main course saved the day. A filet steak for the European and a beef tartare for me were exquisite. The steak, though not as good as some of our favourite places in town, was excellent, considering the price. Well cooked, good quality meat, great fries, too. I don't know why I ordered the tartare, it's such a difficult thing to get right. The European said the one her father makes would be hard to beat and I get that. The dish demands a careful and hand-melded balance of ingredients and spices, even the damn size of the diced meat makes a difference. All things combined, I wouldn't necessarily trust any restaurant to master it. Don't get me wrong; Art's tartare wasn't perfect but it was very good indeed. I enjoyed the familiar dance of spice and tangy freshness, and the texture was excellent.
Speaking for myself, it was during the main course where I felt immersed in all things French to a reasonably authentic degree, and also the things about France that I hold dear from my admittedly limited time there. Good food, chatty, pleasant service, wonderful quaint surroundings and fantastic vibe. After a simply stunning espresso (where the hell do they get their coffee?!) We left Bistro des Arts feeling a little more French, which, that day of all days, couldn't be a bad thing.
Read more at thefoodthing.net/home/france
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